Questions To Ask a Builder on New Construction

Many of the Features We Look For in a New custom home

One of the most common questions I am asked is "How much will it cost to build or buy a new home in Fairview, Lucas, or Parker?" That's an impossible question to answer without some detailed information. It's like asking "How much will a new car cost?" Compare a Lexus to a Hyundai? They are both cars but priced at opposite ends of the spectrum. Lexus knows its customers demand a high quality performance, total reliability, a luxurious environment, and will pay for it. Hyundai knows that its buyers are looking for a functional and affordable car without too many frills that will get the job done. The Hyundai car owner probably likes his car as much as the Lexus owner. So the real question is what are you getting for your money when you buy one or the other. I don't know much about cars, but I do know a little about homes.

A home in Allen on a small lot with 6' 8" hollow doors, 8' or 9' ceilings, minimal crown moldings, carpet instead of hardwood floors, laminate or Corian countertops, lower grade appliances, hardware, and fixtures, a minimum insulation package, and a pre-packaged floor plan that is shared with your neighbors, can be bought for about $65/sf to $70/sf including the lot. For instance, a 2,500 sf tract home on a small lot might sell for around $162,000. This price range is the largest segment of the home buyer market nationwide!

If you prefer a custom home with its own unique floor plan, built on a large lot of at least one acre, with high quality finishout, appliances and hardware, you are going to have to pay for it. A new, true custom home in Fairview, Lucas and Parker on a 1 acre lot might be around $160/sf (including the lot), but can go up to $200/sf if it is absolutely top quality with a pool. Most of the 2000's generation, pre-owned, custom homes in these towns will fall somewhere between $120 to $150/sf (including the 1 acre lot).

Don't overlook Paul Taylor Homes, David Weekly Homes and Drees Homes. These builders are all in Fairview and Lucas from the $90's to low $100's psf (including the lot). I have been very impressed with the level of finishout in these homes (moldings, appliances, wood floors, granite, etc.) so if a repetitive floor plan and similar elevations within your neighborhood doesn't bother you, you might want to take a look. If truth be told, these homes are giving the true custom home market a run for the money and these builders are not going away. They can be a good value for your money, but keep in mind that you are one of thousands. Sellers of these homes have told me that some builders are more responsive to repairs than others, but none will probably ever approach the service you will get with a good, smaller builder who can move more quickly.

The following list of features are items I look for when I walk through a custom home, but don't expect to find all of these features in any one home. That home would probably be so expensive, very few people could afford it. Keep in mind that a builder has to make many decisions when it comes to building and outfitting his "spec" home. If he puts everything in the book into the home, he has priced himself out of the market. If he doesn't put enough into the home, a discriminating and educated buyer is not going to be interested. There is one thing I know for a fact ... when it comes to buying a home, you get what you pay for!

One of the things we feel very strongly about is letting prospective buyers know exactly what is in our homes. This is why we are so detailed in our descriptions. Our Sellers paid for every upgraded item in their home, so they deservedly want credit for those items when they sell. When a home is priced at $110/sf at one end of the street and another is priced at $130/sf at the other end, you need to find out exactly what is in each home. The home at $130/sf might even be a better deal than the home at $110/sf. Relying solely on a price per square foot to determine value can be very misleading and should only be used as a starting point. The true value of a home can only be determined by "peeling back the layers of the onion" to see what is there and what other buyers have paid for homes of similar quality.

Features You Can Easily See When You Walk Through a New, True Custom Home

First Floor

Do you see 8' solid core doors? You will know it because they are heavier than a hollow core door. This is definitely the norm for a new custom home. The solid core door provides much better sound insulation than hollow core doors.
Most custom homes are going to have the thick crown moldings near the front door and entry. But how far away from the front door do those moldings carry through the rest of the home? If you see a home that is loaded up in the entry and the finishout tails off significantly the further you walk away from the front door, that is where the builder is saving some money. Nothing wrong with that, but just be aware of it. A new, true custom home will usually have double to triple crown moldings (unless it would not fit the style of that particular home) throughout all of the downstairs living areas, and an exceptional home will carry those molding through the secondary areas like the laundry room.
If the home has tile, it is porcelain or ceramic? Porcelain is more expensive, but unless it is a major scar, when it is scratched, you are not going to see black marks. When ceramic tile is scratched, you are taking off the top coating and it will show..
What about the floor moldings? Do they look like an afterthought? Floor moldings on high end custom homes are often about 6" thick and carry through the entire first floor.
What is the thickness of the granite in the kitchen? Is it 3 centimeters or 2 centimeters thick? Obviously, the thicker the granite the more expensive the slab.
Is there granite in the master bathroom or cultured marble? Granite used to be reserved for only the most expensive homes, but it is quite common (and almost expected) on homes from about $400K and up.
Does the home have rounded (bull nosed) wall corners? That costs the builder about $1.25 per linear foot to install, and can add up fast, especially with wide, tall arches!
What is the ceiling height on the first floor? A 10' ceiling minimum is the norm.
Large master bedrooms are what everyone looks at first, but how large are the secondary bedrooms? Are their sizes going to hurt you on re-sale?
Does each secondary bedroom have its own walk-in closet, or is it a hanging closet? Buyers of high priced custom homes tend to want walk-in closets and big closets are a big plus when it comes to re-sale.
Look at the height of the tile (if used) in the shower stalls. On less expensive homes, the tile in the master bath only goes to about a 6' height. On a custom home, you often find them up to 8' tall, and it's a nice plus (but much more expensive) if they go from the floor to ceiling.
Do the cabinets look like they are purchased off the shelf at a Super Center? Look at the hinges and hardware. If they look inexpensive, they probably are. Are any of the cabinets glass front? That is a nice touch to a kitchen, but more expensive to put in. Are there glass front cabinets? What is the wood made of? Oak is the most common, but if they are maple or Knotty Alder, it is going to add costs to the home.
Are the wood floors glue-down, laminate or nail-down solid hardwoods on top of a sub-floor? Glue-down laminate floors are quite a bit less expensive than true hardwoods and can only be refinished 2-3 times at most. Most new custom homes will have the nail-down hardwoods on a sub-floor.
Are the windows "tilt-out operable" for easy outside cleaning? A nice feature but added cost. Are they aluminum, vinyl clad aluminum, wood windows or a combination of wood and vinyl? Wood windows are pricey, and can add a lot to the price of a home. They can also suffer from wood rot, so be aware of this. If you like the wood window look, a good alternative is a combination of wood (on the inside) and vinyl (on the outside). Of course these are much more expensive than aluminum windows so it comes down to what you want and how much you will pay for it.
Are the windows energy efficient, Low "E"? If not, they should be on any new custom hone!
What is the grade of shingles? Do they carry a 15 year or even a 40 year warranty? The longer the warranty the more expensive the shingles.
If there is a porch roof, are the supports wood or brick columns? If they are wood, make sure the wood stands off the patio because the bottom will rot over time.
Pull out a drawer in the kitchen. Does it slide smoothly or does it rock left and right as it is being pulled? You might also look to see if it is "dovetailed" in the back. Not a huge deal, but usually a sign of a quality cabinet. Again, look at the hardware pulls.
Are the appliances stainless steel? Stainless steel appliances are more expensive, but they are the norm for today's high end custom home. What is the grade of the appliances? Are they top, top of the line Viking, Miele, Bosche or ASKO or are they good quality GE or Jenn-Air?
Are the kitchen countertops granite, tile, or Corian? All serve their purpose, but granite is going to be much more expensive than the other two selections. What is the thickness of the granite? 3 centimeter granite is thicker (and more expensive) than 2 cm granite. Where do you want to see it? Kitchen? Master Bath? Secondary bathrooms?
Does the home have a central vacuum system? An extra cost, but very handy! People either love these or don't use them. But we have been told several times by different homeowners those are one of the nicest features in the home.
Does the home have an "instant hot water" circulating system throughout the home? This is a great feature if you don't like to stand in a cold shower waiting for it to warm up and the bigger the home, the further some of the bathrooms are going to be from the hot water heater.
Where is the hot water heater located? If it is in the attic, you always run the risk of a leak and the water is going to find its way down. I like to see the hot water heaters in the garage so if there is a leak, it goes to an area where there will be few problems.
Are the hot water heaters tied together? This provides a larger capacity of hot water since you are pulling out of two tanks, not one.
Is the garage floor sealed? Many of our new custom homes have this feature, but that is an added cost.
Look at the frame around the master shower. If you see a frameless, 3/8 inch thick glass, I can tell you, that is a very expensive feature for the builder. If you see aluminum framing around thin glass, that can be a savings of up to $2,000 to the builder. Not a bad thing, but it comes down to your priorities.
Does the home have "state of the art" mechanical systems (including cat 5 wiring and security)? Are all the windows and doors pre-wired for security? Are all of the living areas and bedrooms appropriately wired for television and phone systems? You don't want to be adding these to the cost of the home when you are negotiating the price.
How about the lighting features? Most people can tell good quality without coaching. If it looks expensive, it probably is and visa-versa.
Look at the hardware on the doors. Does the quality of the hardware befit the home? For instance, "Baldwin" brass hardware is much more expensive than your typical door hardware. A good set of hardware for a door can $75 apiece or more.
How about plumbing fixtures. Are they high grade fixtures and a name brand associated with quality? These can be very, very expensive so if you see them, make a mental note that there was money spent there. For instance, Newport Brass fixtures have all brass interior fittings, not plastic.
Check the front door. Does it look like a custom front door? A 2 1/4 inch thick Mahogany front door or a custom made iron door can easily cost $2,000 to $3,000. The front door sets the tone for the quality of the rest of the home, but a builder can save a lot of money on a door.
Was the front yard sodded or hydro-mulched? Sod is much more expensive than hydro-mulch, but it also "takes" much more quickly. In addition, hydromulch will wash away with heavy rains so you might be living in mud for awhile and it might also take a couple of treatments to get it place. A custom builder with a home on acreage will typically sod the front yard and about 20' out on the sides and back. It is just too costly to sod a one or two acre lot.
How much of the yard is sprinklered? A good, high end builder will sprinkler an entire one acre lot, but you rarely find that with a production home builder.
Is the home completely guttered? If not, it should be, no "ifs, ands, or buts". The gutters should be designed to take the water away from the foundation. A gutter draining right into a flower bed with no escape is inviting foundation problems.

Second Floor

What is the ceiling height? A nine foot ceiling (or taller) makes a big difference over an 8' ceiling and reduces the "tunnel effect". Of course, this is more expensive for the builder because they have to buy longer boards and cut them to size, creating wastage. Anything over 9' (like a vaulted ceiling in a bedroom) makes a huge difference. It can make a small room appear much larger than it is and really opens up the room.
Are the doors upstairs hollow or solid core? A newer true custom home should have solid core doors up here also, but 6'8" doors are the norm. When I see a home with 8' solid doors on the second floor, that tells me this is a builder who is putting money into his home.
If you find thick crown moldings, thick floor moldings, and rounded wall corners on the second floor, that builder has put money into the home where many wouldn't.

Features You Might Not Think About or Be Able to See

Was the home built on piers? If so, to what depth were the piers set? Many times piers are not required (per the required engineering report), but I personally would like my home sitting on piers in this "black gumbo" soil which is so prevalent in this area. Piers are relatively inexpensive when compared to the overall price of the home.
Are the perimeter wall studs 4" or 6" thick? 4" walls are the standard, but 6" walls are better because they provide more room for insulation.
Is there a "house wrap" on the home for additional insulation? Is the house wrap "tucked" around the windows so heating and cooling is not lost?
Is the insulation within the exterior walls a state-of-the-art, low density, spray-applied foam, or the less expensive (and less effective) "batt" or "blown in cellulose"? For a comprehensive explanation of insulation alternatives, see www.foammandfw.com.
Are the interior walls insulated for sound? When a commode is flushed upstairs, you don't want to be listening to it downstairs.
Are the can lights throughout the home designed to be insulated from above? If you are in to this sort of thing, go up in your attic on a hot Dallas summer day. Put your hand over one of your can lights from above and see if you felt cool air blowing from below. If so, you are suffering a significant cooling loss which will impact your utility bills. The standard can light runs hot, and is not designed for insulation over the top. A newer generation, less bright but cooler burning, can light is designed to take the insulation right over the top and keep the air inside the home.
Another thing to look for in the attic is a thermal roof decking insulation? This is the silver backing you see when looking up. This will keep the attic from 20 to 30 degrees cooler in the summer and retain the heat in the winter. Here is what good attic construction should look like.
Is the garage door a typical 7' in height, or 8'? Is it an insulated or non-insulated door? Is it a custom wood door? Again, added costs.
Does the wiring system have a "home run" which is easy to get to? It should be.
Although commodes are a bit of problem to talk about, but those are just as important as most other features of the home. Are the commodes a standard brand, or an industry leader, such as Toto.
Does each bedroom have its own separate air return for better heating and cooling efficiency?
Are all of the HVAC vents on separate runs to the air handler? This is not a requirement, but if there are two or more vents on the same run, the vent at the furthest end of the run from the air handler can have a reduced air flow. Making a separate run to each vent costs more in materials and labor, but the heating and cooling is more evenly dispersed.
Are the wall studs behind the sheetrock on 24" centers or 16" centers? 24" centers are code for a single story home, but 16" centers provide more screwing surfaces for the sheetrock (straighter walls). Is the sheetrock attached to the wall studs by nails or screws? Screws take more time but the sheetrock is not going to move. Again, this all adds costs to the home.
Is the home wired for surround sound? Builders rarely install the speakers, but the home should be pre-wired for them.
How about the second floor? Is it going to squeak when you walk on it? A "Silent Floor" system prevents the squeaking. The decking should be screwed and glued to the truss. The decking should also be tongue and grooved into each other to provide a sound floor system.
Is the builder using OSB (particle board) for the second floor sub-flooring or plywood? Plywood is a superior material to use but more expensive.
Is the thickness of the second floor sub-flooring 3/4" or 1 1/8"? You can feel the difference!
What is the Seer rating on the HVAC? A "12 Seer" is the standard, but many times a good custom builder will take it to the next level. The highest I have seen is an 18 Seer. Is the tonnage adequate to carry the home?

Other Things to Consider

How many homes does the builder build a year? If it is a smaller builder, they can be stretched with too many homes on the ground, so find out what they have going and what they have coming up.
Was the builder (or his superintendent) on-site every day of construction to make sure his subcontractors were doing things right? Remember, any builder is only as good as his "subs" so find out how long his subs have been working for him.

Tom Grisak Estate Homes Realtors, Inc - Texas License # 0329533

Your Realtors for Allentexas, Fairviewtexas, Lucastexas, McKinneytexas, Murphytexas, and Parkertexas